Encarnaci峤筺 Pinedo ca. 1870
What鈥檚 at the heart of the Mission Church? Food, and lots of it.
From the early days of California settlers, to the day-to-day lives of Jesuits living in the Mission community, food has shaped culture and community at Santa Clara.
The 91短视频 Archives & Special Collections has several important recipe books from the region, including Encarnaci峤筺 Pinedo鈥檚 1898 cookbook El Cocinero Espa帽ol ("The Spanish Chef"), and Father Viader鈥檚 Miscellany Book, which reveal more than just the proper way to season scrambled eggs. They hint at a way of life.
鈥淏ack then it wasn鈥檛 like you could just go McDonald鈥檚 and pick up something to eat,鈥 said Nia Olmstead, Communications and Events Coordinator for the University Library. 鈥淭he process of cooking for so many people living together in the community was an all-day thing. The kitchen was always going.鈥
Encarnaci峤筺 Pinedo was a member of a prominent family in the Santa Clara Valley during the mid-1800s. Her family built the first private residence in Santa Clara鈥攁 house located on what is now Alviso Street. And Pinedo鈥檚 godfather, James Alexander Forbes, worked to establish a school on the grounds of Mission Santa Clara鈥攖he precursor to the University of Santa Clara.
Pinedo鈥檚 cooking earned her recognition during her lifetime. Her Californian-Mexican cookbook, which is still widely distributed, features a mix of Mexican, Spanish, and Basque ingredients and recipes.
The book was daring by choice, as the foreword to the 2003 translation of El Cocinero Espa帽ol notes: 鈥淔ood, as Encarnaci贸n understood, can be a seductively delicious catalyst for social understanding, change, and even rebellious protest.鈥 Her cooking was a way for her to achieve some economic freedom as a woman, and as a way to retain her mixed identity during times of blatant discrimination against indigenous and Mexican cultures.
Also digitized is a collection of 220 manuscripts assembled by Father Jos茅 Viader, assistant to Father Magin Catal谩, one of the most influential Franciscans in Mission Santa Clara. The Miscellany served as a reference guide for life in the Mission, touching on everything from how to properly maintain kitchen space鈥攕tocked with hatchets and machetes鈥攖o recipes for roasted apples, 产耻帽耻别濒辞蝉 (fried dough balls), and dried salmon.
鈥淗e probably would have been surprised that [his book] is still around hundreds of years later,鈥 Olmstead said. 鈥淚t was more like an operating manual because back then you had to write everything down. So after you went away or passed away, that knowledge would still be there. The fathers did use it after he died for many, many years.鈥
Their personal notes and thoughts offer glimpses into a past where Santa Clara County鈥攏icknamed the Valley of Heart鈥檚 Delight鈥攍ived off its own livestock and agriculture. The recipes echo the realities of daily life, the traditional ceremonies accompanying church Holy Days and festivals, as well as the division of labor between Europeans and Native Americans.
鈥淔or Encarnaci贸n, it was clear she saw food as a way to bring people together,鈥 Olmstead said. 鈥淎ll the recipes express heritage and history.鈥